The Tyler is a PDF pattern, and can only be purchased in 2 sizes at a time. The pieces are all overlapped, which isn't that big a deal - I'd rather only tape together 12 pieces of paper for a pattern than 20. I usually go over my lines with a highlighter anyway before tracing, it's heaps easier to trace then. The seam allowances are not included but they recommend a 1cm seam allowance. My fabric frays badly, plus you know I love a good (trimmed) french seam, so I increased the sleeve, back and side seam allowances to the standard 15mm or 5/8 inch so I can french them. I purchased the 34/36, and made my muslin in a straight 36.
Being a raglan sleeve one has to make a full bodice and both sleeves to be able to keep the thing on one's body so with adjustments it took me a few hours. It fit pretty well in the shoulders, but was way too tight across the bust and hips which was a bit of a drag because I didn't have the size 38 pattern to grade up to. If you check out the physique of the model on the website she does have quite broad shoulders, so I suspect I will not be the only person who has to add some extra room either in the bust and/or hips. I also think the armpit seam could be raised a little higher, but I wasn't sure how to do it so have left that alone for the moment.
|Straining across le bust! Can't pin closed over hips! Sigh.|
|Mega sway back adjustment required....|
|Maybe a bit loose across my upper back but no idea how to fix that in a raglan. I can't see it - so I'm not caring too much!|
To improve the fit across my chest I added an extra inch to each front piece (essentially the allowance allowed for the button plackets) which helped enormously, plus I added an extra 1cm on each side right at the hips, grading up to the straight 36 at the waistline:
I extended the bust darts by about 1cm, and I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment at the centre back - this pic is just pinned, on my stunt double it looked good (sorry about using metric and empiric in the same sentence - it's just how my brain works I'm afraid!).
So now I've transferred my changes to my pattern, and was quite pleased to remember to add the extra inch to my collar and stand pieces, PLUS an extra inch to each to make up for the extra seam allowances in all the other seams.
I'm going to use the Threads sleeve placket tutorial mentioned by Sunni @ A Fashionable Stitch, and was thrilled to read Andrea's collar tutorial earlier in the week too, plus there are a few other shirt sew-alongs I've found on the web that look very helpful too - this is my first ever shirt and it will absolutely be a team effort! Wish me luck.....